Before we came to Israel, Cassie set 2 goals for our year here: riding a camel and going to the Dead Sea. Recently, it's occurred to us that we've been here 2 months already, and have not really checked much off our list. So this week, when I was on a break between semesters and the girls were on break for the end of Ramadan, we decided to take a family trip to the Dead Sea and the oasis at Ein Gedi.
The girls were very, very excited about our planned "hike." They both wore pants, in case they scraped their knees on the rough terrain. They reminded us to bring water and snacks. They regaled us with stories of nature walks past. After packing unbelievable amounts of stuff for a one-night trip, we were off, in our brand new rental car.
By far the most successful part of the trip was the camel ride, which took place at a gas station on our way to Ein Gedi. For 20 shekels, Cassie and I got a 3 minute walk on a camel, which Cassie accurately described as a "really slow roller coaster ride." Camel ride: check!
The Dead Sea was less successful. We arrived at our self-described luxury resort hotel to find that there was no lunch. The girls had milkshakes and we had a croissant at the coffee bar. Then off to our room, which was basically what you would have found in 1965 in a small town in Arizona. For $300 a night. But never mind! Off to the Dead Sea!
We arrived at the "spa," the guests of which basically fell into 3 categories: Elderly Russians; Elderly Ultra-orthodox Jews; and a smattering of Arab families. And us. We went to eat at the restaurant, which was serving a high-priced and basically inedible meat buffet accompanies by moldy bread. I had a granola bar, a coke, and a beer. Lunch over, we went to the humid and sulfurous spa building, where we wrestled the girls into suits in preparation for a trip via truck-wagon (think a hay ride without the hay) to the Sea itself.
Viv had already made it clear, after our dire warnings about not touching your eyes, that she was NOT GOING IN to the Dead Sea. She was also basically falling asleep. But off we went anyway. We arrived, and it was, we have to admit, very, very cool. A whole "beach" crusted in salt, with big piles of salt everywhere. Cassie and I waded in. She immediately lost her flip-flop and scratched her foot, resulting in hopping that dislodged the other flip-flop. We persevered and enjoyed approximately 10 seconds of submersion, at which point she started to burn all over. In the meantime, Viv had insisted on joining us, but only if I would get her. I went back and fetched Viv as Cassie began to hop and lose her shoes again. Viv also started to itch. But she doesn't like showers. So there we were, the 2 of them starting to snivel in discomfort, and all of us wading out of the scalding water trying not to scrape ourselves on salt. The walk back to the non-hayride was the longest desert trek since the Exodus. Viv was alternately crying and falling asleep. Cassie was insisting that she was NEVER GOING INTO THE DEAD SEA EVER AGAIN. I was wishing I had another beer.
Thank goodness for swimming pools. Following this debacle, we went to the pool, where both girls perked up and invented new jumps while the "lifeguard" basically texted and napped the entire time. After dinner, we put Viv to bed, and I stayed with her, reading by flashlight like I haven't done since I was 10. Cassie insisted that we take a walk with flashlights, but soon discovered spiders. Finally, we all went to sleep, with only 2 of us snoring at a time, and the other 2 getting up to alternatively turn on and off the annoyingly binary air conditioning.
In the morning, we were all cranky. Breakfast didn't help, since this is a land that does not know from real coffee. Cassie didn't want to go on a hike. Viv insisted on going on a hike, but also insisted that we carry her. Josh and I somehow kept ourselves from crying, since the only reason we didn't do a daytrip was to have a chance to see the oasis/national park. We scrapped the hike and went back to the pool, keeping an eye on the time so that we could be sure to avoid the spa buffet and instead dine in the relative splendor of the gas station with the camel rides. More jumps! More splashing!
At this point, the girls deem this the best vacation ever. Josh and I are glad we have babysitting on the other end.
All in all, a success! After all, we checked both of Cassie's goals off our list, and have learned that the secret to happiness on our upcoming trip to Istanbul will be making sure we have access to a pool. Plus, it got us to finally sign up for a monthly rental car, which has already changed our lives for the better. Stay tuned for further adventures!
Thursday, September 1, 2011
Saturday, August 13, 2011
Kaballat Shabbat behind the Mechitza and under the Moon
One of my friends suggested that we check out a synagogue in our neighborhood for Friday night services. It was an orthodox congregation, with a mechitza (the divider between men and women's sides), but he said the services were spirited and fun, and I was curious to get a taste of a traditional service.
We arrived and split up, the men going in one entrance, and the women around the back. We entered a room with a high mechitzah, separating the women's section from the men's. The women were sitting silently as the men prayed. This did not bode well. Luckily, we soon realized that our male friends were not up front. We were thrilled (or at least I was) to find that this was not the right service. We went upstairs, and found another room with a mechitza. This one ran down the middle, but the prayer leader was on the men's side. It was hot, and there were no open seats. I struggled to find our place in the siddur (prayerbook). I was happy to see the women singing and praying audibly this time, but except for the times when I recognized a familiar tune, I was adrift.
Then, the unthinkable happened. The lights went out. Had someone leaned on the switch? If so, we were stuck, because no one in that room was going to admit being willing to flip the switch back on after Shabbat had begun. Since it was too dark to follow the siddur, many of the women walked outside, where there was still some light. (The men stayed inside in the dark. Go figure).
That's when the magic began for me. The moon was bright and visible through the clouds, which were turning pink and drifting across the sky. We could see a star peeking through here and there. All around us were the sounds of people singing to welcome Shabbat. It was wonderful to actually see evening fall. Shabbat was arriving in a tangible, visible way. Then the lights went back on, and many women went back inside. I stayed outside for awhile though, not wanting to give up the breeze and the freedom.
All in all, the service was not my cup of tea. But I'm glad I went, in part because it shows me just how far I have to go in being able to skillfully pray the traditional service. I hope to go back at the end of the year and see if it feels different, or less foreign.
Next on my list is Shira Chadasha, and orthodox feminist congregation, which requires 10 women as well as 10 men to form a minyan, and which allows women to read Torah. I hear the mechitza is lower, too. I'll be curious to see if that experience feels different, and less alienating. Or whether it's like yoga, and the first 10 times are just going to seem awkward and uncomfortable no matter what.
Stay tuned!
We arrived and split up, the men going in one entrance, and the women around the back. We entered a room with a high mechitzah, separating the women's section from the men's. The women were sitting silently as the men prayed. This did not bode well. Luckily, we soon realized that our male friends were not up front. We were thrilled (or at least I was) to find that this was not the right service. We went upstairs, and found another room with a mechitza. This one ran down the middle, but the prayer leader was on the men's side. It was hot, and there were no open seats. I struggled to find our place in the siddur (prayerbook). I was happy to see the women singing and praying audibly this time, but except for the times when I recognized a familiar tune, I was adrift.
Then, the unthinkable happened. The lights went out. Had someone leaned on the switch? If so, we were stuck, because no one in that room was going to admit being willing to flip the switch back on after Shabbat had begun. Since it was too dark to follow the siddur, many of the women walked outside, where there was still some light. (The men stayed inside in the dark. Go figure).
That's when the magic began for me. The moon was bright and visible through the clouds, which were turning pink and drifting across the sky. We could see a star peeking through here and there. All around us were the sounds of people singing to welcome Shabbat. It was wonderful to actually see evening fall. Shabbat was arriving in a tangible, visible way. Then the lights went back on, and many women went back inside. I stayed outside for awhile though, not wanting to give up the breeze and the freedom.
All in all, the service was not my cup of tea. But I'm glad I went, in part because it shows me just how far I have to go in being able to skillfully pray the traditional service. I hope to go back at the end of the year and see if it feels different, or less foreign.
Next on my list is Shira Chadasha, and orthodox feminist congregation, which requires 10 women as well as 10 men to form a minyan, and which allows women to read Torah. I hear the mechitza is lower, too. I'll be curious to see if that experience feels different, and less alienating. Or whether it's like yoga, and the first 10 times are just going to seem awkward and uncomfortable no matter what.
Stay tuned!
Shabbat FAIL
So, it seems like we must be doing Shabbat wrong. Because I'm sure that it's not supposed to be a day where you look at the clock wondering when it will end. That's Yom Kippur!
Basically, the problems are:
(1) My school week is Sunday through Thursday, as is the girls'.
(2) All the stores close by 3 on Friday and don't open again till Sunday.
(3) Josh works Friday nights.
(4) We don't have a group of friends with kids yet for weekend playdates.
So I get home tired and sweaty from a field trip every Thursday night. Friday (my only real day "off") is the day we run around (with the kids) doing shopping and errands so we can be sure to have food to last us till Sunday morning. Friday afternoon, I hang with the kids while Josh works, and then sometimes sneak out to services. Saturday morning, Viv and I go to services while Josh and Cass stay home. Then we basically have 8 hours to fill till bedtime. It's been crazy hot, so outdoor activities are hard with the kids during the day. So unless we have a Shabbat lunch or something, we basically hang out annoying each other all day. As soon as the kids are in bed, it's time to do my homework, since a brand new week starts at 8:30 AM Sunday.
I realize that the answer to this is planning. We may soon get a long term car rental, since part of the problem is that by the time we realize we'd like to get out of town, we can no longer rent one. And now that I'll no longer be required to attend services at HUC every Saturday, we will have a bit more freedom to get out of town. But we're working so hard during the week that planning a trip seems like ONE MORE THING, and wouldn't necessarily leave us feeling more rested. Shabbat just isn't feeling like a day of rest right now. It feels like something to overcome, and that's not what I want. I know we'll figure it out, and soon the girls will have friends who we can get together with on the weekends, which should help a lot. But for now, the lack of Shabbat in my Shabbat is making me grouchy.
Basically, the problems are:
(1) My school week is Sunday through Thursday, as is the girls'.
(2) All the stores close by 3 on Friday and don't open again till Sunday.
(3) Josh works Friday nights.
(4) We don't have a group of friends with kids yet for weekend playdates.
So I get home tired and sweaty from a field trip every Thursday night. Friday (my only real day "off") is the day we run around (with the kids) doing shopping and errands so we can be sure to have food to last us till Sunday morning. Friday afternoon, I hang with the kids while Josh works, and then sometimes sneak out to services. Saturday morning, Viv and I go to services while Josh and Cass stay home. Then we basically have 8 hours to fill till bedtime. It's been crazy hot, so outdoor activities are hard with the kids during the day. So unless we have a Shabbat lunch or something, we basically hang out annoying each other all day. As soon as the kids are in bed, it's time to do my homework, since a brand new week starts at 8:30 AM Sunday.
I realize that the answer to this is planning. We may soon get a long term car rental, since part of the problem is that by the time we realize we'd like to get out of town, we can no longer rent one. And now that I'll no longer be required to attend services at HUC every Saturday, we will have a bit more freedom to get out of town. But we're working so hard during the week that planning a trip seems like ONE MORE THING, and wouldn't necessarily leave us feeling more rested. Shabbat just isn't feeling like a day of rest right now. It feels like something to overcome, and that's not what I want. I know we'll figure it out, and soon the girls will have friends who we can get together with on the weekends, which should help a lot. But for now, the lack of Shabbat in my Shabbat is making me grouchy.
Monday, August 1, 2011
Kittens!
We've now moved out of Yemin Moshe, but this video shows a bit of how beautiful it is, and highlights our favorite part -- the KITTENS!
Sunday, July 31, 2011
Giving Thanks
Last Friday, the girls wrote their thoughts on slips of paper and placed them in the Western Wall.
Centipede
Despite their profound differences, I have to believe that Israelis and Palestinians would agree that this massive centipede is icky.
Saturday, July 23, 2011
"Are they Muslim?"
It's been a whirlwind week here in the Holy Land.
I had my first week of classes, which was a welcome change from orientation. The main focus of this 6 week summer session is an intensive Hebrew program, which meets 3 1/2 hours a day Sunday through Wednesday. I am in a great class, and happily, we all feel like we're stretching to understand, so no one's bored and no one is flailing. But since the class is just ahead of our skills, I have to pay attention every second to stay in the groove, and being on the edge of your seat for 4 hours is exhausting.
We also have a Biblical Archeology class, which is fascinating, and includes a field trip every week. This week, we went out to a lookout point to get a good topographical view of the city, and then went to an archeological site at Ramat Rachel. I feel so Indiana Jones. I can't believe I get to do this stuff for credit.
In apartment news, we saw a bunch more places this week, and ultimately decided to go with a gorgeous place that's a bit further out than we would have liked. It has a fantastic view, plenty of room to entertain, and a wonderful workspace for Josh. Plus a guest room, and 2 rooms for the girls. (Stay tuned for pushback when they are forced to share again 11 months from now). It's also a (longish) walking distance from their school, which should come in handy. It's basically the apartment we wish we had in NYC, and so is well worth the commute, I think. I just hope we can lure my friends out to visit us!
In some ways the most exciting news of the week was that we received our first Shabbat lunch invitation from people unrelated to my school. Viv has made a friend at camp, Noah, and his mom called out of the blue to invite us over. I was really excited to get the invite; it made me feel like we'd arrived, and showed off the hospitable side of Israeli life. Since the mom's name was Bracha, and the camp is modern orthodox, I was a bit flummoxed about what to bring, since I didn't know what brand of kashrut they followed. I settled on fruit, which is always kosher, and it turned out to be a hit.
The lunch was awkward and lovely at the same time. Josh borrowed a kippah (yarmulke) from their 3 year old till I arrived with his own, and there were lots of traditional practices that were new for the girls. When it came time to do the ritual handwashing, Cassie whispered, "Are they Muslim?" Since I'm barely used to the Reform version of the blessing after meals, I was a bit lost, but we all hung in there, and our hosts were very gracious about our cluelessness. After lunch, Viv and I went to the playground with her friend and his mom, and had a great time. All in all, even if we don't have so much in common with Noah's family, it was wonderful to be welcomed into the homes of strangers in our first month here.
Since the school week is Sunday through Thursday here, tonight's a school night (although I know many of the younger folks in my class will be partying late). Time to make thedonuts flashcards.
I had my first week of classes, which was a welcome change from orientation. The main focus of this 6 week summer session is an intensive Hebrew program, which meets 3 1/2 hours a day Sunday through Wednesday. I am in a great class, and happily, we all feel like we're stretching to understand, so no one's bored and no one is flailing. But since the class is just ahead of our skills, I have to pay attention every second to stay in the groove, and being on the edge of your seat for 4 hours is exhausting.
We also have a Biblical Archeology class, which is fascinating, and includes a field trip every week. This week, we went out to a lookout point to get a good topographical view of the city, and then went to an archeological site at Ramat Rachel. I feel so Indiana Jones. I can't believe I get to do this stuff for credit.
In apartment news, we saw a bunch more places this week, and ultimately decided to go with a gorgeous place that's a bit further out than we would have liked. It has a fantastic view, plenty of room to entertain, and a wonderful workspace for Josh. Plus a guest room, and 2 rooms for the girls. (Stay tuned for pushback when they are forced to share again 11 months from now). It's also a (longish) walking distance from their school, which should come in handy. It's basically the apartment we wish we had in NYC, and so is well worth the commute, I think. I just hope we can lure my friends out to visit us!
In some ways the most exciting news of the week was that we received our first Shabbat lunch invitation from people unrelated to my school. Viv has made a friend at camp, Noah, and his mom called out of the blue to invite us over. I was really excited to get the invite; it made me feel like we'd arrived, and showed off the hospitable side of Israeli life. Since the mom's name was Bracha, and the camp is modern orthodox, I was a bit flummoxed about what to bring, since I didn't know what brand of kashrut they followed. I settled on fruit, which is always kosher, and it turned out to be a hit.
The lunch was awkward and lovely at the same time. Josh borrowed a kippah (yarmulke) from their 3 year old till I arrived with his own, and there were lots of traditional practices that were new for the girls. When it came time to do the ritual handwashing, Cassie whispered, "Are they Muslim?" Since I'm barely used to the Reform version of the blessing after meals, I was a bit lost, but we all hung in there, and our hosts were very gracious about our cluelessness. After lunch, Viv and I went to the playground with her friend and his mom, and had a great time. All in all, even if we don't have so much in common with Noah's family, it was wonderful to be welcomed into the homes of strangers in our first month here.
Since the school week is Sunday through Thursday here, tonight's a school night (although I know many of the younger folks in my class will be partying late). Time to make the
Sunday, July 17, 2011
Moving on up
I bought a new vacuum cleaner today, as part of our commitment to being happy where we are instead of waiting and hoping for a chance to move. It replaces the vacuum cleaner that we owned for an hour or two on Friday and then lost.
As soon as I got the new vacuum home, we got an email from the landlord's lawyer saying he'd release us from the lease. We can move! I think Nicole would be content to stay, and the girls love the house, but it irritates me in a thousand ways and I can't wait to leave. (Yes, I'm the high-maintenance one here.) So, we're moving. There are two candidate apartments, both lovely, and I think we'll decide in the next couple days which we'll take.
I'll miss a few aspects of Yemin Moshe. It's a gorgeous neighborhood, and the quiet alleyways are magical at night. But I won't miss the 110 steps up to the parking lot, the loud concerts at the adjacent amphitheater, or the many irritations of our particular house. It's time to go.
Best moment of the day: taking the girls to deliver a can of tuna to one of the billion stray cats that live here. The night air was cool and clear and it felt wonderful to be outside. We sat on the steps, watched our adopted-for-the-moment cat quietly eat its dinner, and I felt at home.
As soon as I got the new vacuum home, we got an email from the landlord's lawyer saying he'd release us from the lease. We can move! I think Nicole would be content to stay, and the girls love the house, but it irritates me in a thousand ways and I can't wait to leave. (Yes, I'm the high-maintenance one here.) So, we're moving. There are two candidate apartments, both lovely, and I think we'll decide in the next couple days which we'll take.
I'll miss a few aspects of Yemin Moshe. It's a gorgeous neighborhood, and the quiet alleyways are magical at night. But I won't miss the 110 steps up to the parking lot, the loud concerts at the adjacent amphitheater, or the many irritations of our particular house. It's time to go.
Best moment of the day: taking the girls to deliver a can of tuna to one of the billion stray cats that live here. The night air was cool and clear and it felt wonderful to be outside. We sat on the steps, watched our adopted-for-the-moment cat quietly eat its dinner, and I felt at home.
Saturday, July 16, 2011
Getting Oriented
"So, what's going on with the apartment," you ask? Well, our landlord has adopted the bold and creative negotiating tactic of simply ignoring our communications. As we say in our house, "la la la . . . kittens!" So, having lived here for two weeks refusing to fully unpack and rooting through 12 exploded suitcases every morning looking for clothes, we decided to unpack and be happy where we are.
We celebrated this decision by taking a field trip to the big retail hub of Jerusalem, Talpiyot. (The kids were off at the zoo -- Thank you Bubbe Cookie and Samantha!). In other words, we went to the mall! It was awesome. With the huge supermarket attached to the huge home supply store, it was like living in the America we don't live in at home, only we couldn't accurately identify 75% of the products around us. We came home with a microwave -- two weeks of heating up macaroni and cheese without one was more than enough -- a vacuum cleaner, a Brita, and lots of food. OK, so we kind of lost the vacuum cleaner somewhere between the mall and home, but we did own a vacuum cleaner for a good half hour, and it felt great. We're planning on owning one again tomorrow (hopefully for a longer period of time).
Our quads and lungs are getting used to the stairs, and we've found good shortcuts to the Old City and to school. So, life is slowly slowly getting easier here.
Moving on from the mundane, there have been many many highlights this week, which was our "orientation" week. It wasn't really an orientation to school as much as it was an introduction to our class and a kick in the pants to experience Jerusalem. Looking back, here are a few of my favorite moments:
(1) On Thursday afternoon, when Cassie had a long day at camp, Viv asked to go to the Old City to buy a bracelet. As Josh said, if your 3 year old asks to go to the Old City of Jerusalem and you can walk there, why not? So we took a walk at Vivian's pace. She bought her bracelet, had an ice cream, slid down the little slides in the stairs in the Arab shuk. It was magical. She asked if we could go see "the wall with the wishes in it" but we got turned around and tired before we got there. Good news is, we have lots of other chances.
(2) The first night of orientation, after sunset, we went for a lesson right outside the walls of the Old City. To see the moon rise over the walls of the Old City and to be able to see my neighborhood at the same time . . . more magic.
(3) I finally got to go get my groove on with the hip young people in my program, and had a blast. Turns out I'm still fun sometimes.
(4) I have a favorite falafel place, which makes me feel like I live here. Even better, I discovered it with a new friend.
(5) I asked a lot of questions in Hebrew and understood some of the answers. I was also able to get across the idea of "air mattress" in Hebrew, of which I was particularly proud.
(6) I had someone ask me directions, and answered "yashar yashar yashar" (i.e. "keep going," which is the answer to all requests for directions here.). Another sign I'm getting used to the place.
(7) Both girls had fun their first week of camp. (Phew).
OK, so I'm rambling, but it's the first time I've had to sit down all week. More soon!
We celebrated this decision by taking a field trip to the big retail hub of Jerusalem, Talpiyot. (The kids were off at the zoo -- Thank you Bubbe Cookie and Samantha!). In other words, we went to the mall! It was awesome. With the huge supermarket attached to the huge home supply store, it was like living in the America we don't live in at home, only we couldn't accurately identify 75% of the products around us. We came home with a microwave -- two weeks of heating up macaroni and cheese without one was more than enough -- a vacuum cleaner, a Brita, and lots of food. OK, so we kind of lost the vacuum cleaner somewhere between the mall and home, but we did own a vacuum cleaner for a good half hour, and it felt great. We're planning on owning one again tomorrow (hopefully for a longer period of time).
Our quads and lungs are getting used to the stairs, and we've found good shortcuts to the Old City and to school. So, life is slowly slowly getting easier here.
Moving on from the mundane, there have been many many highlights this week, which was our "orientation" week. It wasn't really an orientation to school as much as it was an introduction to our class and a kick in the pants to experience Jerusalem. Looking back, here are a few of my favorite moments:
(1) On Thursday afternoon, when Cassie had a long day at camp, Viv asked to go to the Old City to buy a bracelet. As Josh said, if your 3 year old asks to go to the Old City of Jerusalem and you can walk there, why not? So we took a walk at Vivian's pace. She bought her bracelet, had an ice cream, slid down the little slides in the stairs in the Arab shuk. It was magical. She asked if we could go see "the wall with the wishes in it" but we got turned around and tired before we got there. Good news is, we have lots of other chances.
(2) The first night of orientation, after sunset, we went for a lesson right outside the walls of the Old City. To see the moon rise over the walls of the Old City and to be able to see my neighborhood at the same time . . . more magic.
(3) I finally got to go get my groove on with the hip young people in my program, and had a blast. Turns out I'm still fun sometimes.
(4) I have a favorite falafel place, which makes me feel like I live here. Even better, I discovered it with a new friend.
(5) I asked a lot of questions in Hebrew and understood some of the answers. I was also able to get across the idea of "air mattress" in Hebrew, of which I was particularly proud.
(6) I had someone ask me directions, and answered "yashar yashar yashar" (i.e. "keep going," which is the answer to all requests for directions here.). Another sign I'm getting used to the place.
(7) Both girls had fun their first week of camp. (Phew).
OK, so I'm rambling, but it's the first time I've had to sit down all week. More soon!
Wednesday, July 6, 2011
A Bumpy Start
I've been reading with envy the blog posts of my fellow students, who are all so thrilled to be here and having such a blast exploring the city. For us, the beginning of our adventure has been a bit bumpier.
As advertized, our apartment is charming, has lots of character, and is in a very cool neighborhood. But when we arrived it was also filthy (but at least the cockroaches were dead!), and unairconditioned. Plus the hot water wasn't working. So we spent our first 2 days here not wanting to walk on the floors in bare feet, not willing to unpack, and very very smelly. We had also underestimated how much of a trek it would be from our place to shopping, etc. (Luckily, we've since learned about grocery delivery, so that should help.)
Then on Tuesday night, after we had pitched a fit and gotten our landlord to send someone to clean the apartment, there was a SMELL. Samantha noticed it first. She came up from downstairs and said, "Maybe it's me, but it kind of smells like a sewer downstairs." And she was right. So she moved her stuff upstairs. But the SMELL followed. Soon it had settled in the kitchen. Not ideal. By this time it was 10 PM. The girls were complaining that the house smelled like poop. Josh had a conference call in an hour. Officially creeped out and at the end of our ropes, we packed everyone up and walked to a hotel. Josh did his call from the lobby while I checked us in.
The next morning, I came back to supervise the workers who had come to investigate the SMELL and air conditioning. There was much disagreement over the source and nature of the SMELL. Was it a dead animal? Gas leaking from a hole in the floor? Who knew? Soon the workers had fixed the A/C (kind of) and sealed the hole in the floor. After a day with the A/C on and the windows open, the SMELL seems to have departed.
Today we are going to look at alternative apartments. We figure that even if we stay, it should be based on knowing our alternatives. Where will we land? Will all those self-addressed stamped envelopes be for naught? Who can say?
Not to be forgotten is the adventure of the potty seat. Somehow, between the airport and here, we lost Viv's potty seat. She will not go without it. So for several days, during the roach/SMELL adventures, she was reverting to asking for a pullup when she needed to go. Turns out you can't buy potty seats in pharmacies here. You need a "children's store." But given our apartment adventures (and the fact that everyone has been sleeping till noon) we had no time to find such a place. Finally, I broke down and posted a plea on Facebook, asking my fellow students to go on a potty quest. And guess what?! They totally came through. Huge points to our new friends. Never have I been so happy to hear someone else pee.
On a brighter note:
(1) The girls have not tired of all the cats here.
(2) My fellow students seem wonderful.
(3) Vivian found trees she can climb ALL BY HERSELF.
(4) We had a great time at the HUC 4th of July BBQ, during which Cassie threw a football. (Perhaps an Auerbach first).
(5) After a stressful time picking out presents in the Old City (Viv: "There are so many beautiful things I can't choose") we came home with appropriately sparkly items.
(6) We have found a yogurt/chocolate item combo that Viv can live on.
(7) Cassie has new favorite foods: schawarma (a new entry into her favorite category of "salty meat") and pear tarts from Aroma.
(8) Viv approves of the falafel and hummus here.
Onward!
As advertized, our apartment is charming, has lots of character, and is in a very cool neighborhood. But when we arrived it was also filthy (but at least the cockroaches were dead!), and unairconditioned. Plus the hot water wasn't working. So we spent our first 2 days here not wanting to walk on the floors in bare feet, not willing to unpack, and very very smelly. We had also underestimated how much of a trek it would be from our place to shopping, etc. (Luckily, we've since learned about grocery delivery, so that should help.)
Then on Tuesday night, after we had pitched a fit and gotten our landlord to send someone to clean the apartment, there was a SMELL. Samantha noticed it first. She came up from downstairs and said, "Maybe it's me, but it kind of smells like a sewer downstairs." And she was right. So she moved her stuff upstairs. But the SMELL followed. Soon it had settled in the kitchen. Not ideal. By this time it was 10 PM. The girls were complaining that the house smelled like poop. Josh had a conference call in an hour. Officially creeped out and at the end of our ropes, we packed everyone up and walked to a hotel. Josh did his call from the lobby while I checked us in.
The next morning, I came back to supervise the workers who had come to investigate the SMELL and air conditioning. There was much disagreement over the source and nature of the SMELL. Was it a dead animal? Gas leaking from a hole in the floor? Who knew? Soon the workers had fixed the A/C (kind of) and sealed the hole in the floor. After a day with the A/C on and the windows open, the SMELL seems to have departed.
Today we are going to look at alternative apartments. We figure that even if we stay, it should be based on knowing our alternatives. Where will we land? Will all those self-addressed stamped envelopes be for naught? Who can say?
Not to be forgotten is the adventure of the potty seat. Somehow, between the airport and here, we lost Viv's potty seat. She will not go without it. So for several days, during the roach/SMELL adventures, she was reverting to asking for a pullup when she needed to go. Turns out you can't buy potty seats in pharmacies here. You need a "children's store." But given our apartment adventures (and the fact that everyone has been sleeping till noon) we had no time to find such a place. Finally, I broke down and posted a plea on Facebook, asking my fellow students to go on a potty quest. And guess what?! They totally came through. Huge points to our new friends. Never have I been so happy to hear someone else pee.
On a brighter note:
(1) The girls have not tired of all the cats here.
(2) My fellow students seem wonderful.
(3) Vivian found trees she can climb ALL BY HERSELF.
(4) We had a great time at the HUC 4th of July BBQ, during which Cassie threw a football. (Perhaps an Auerbach first).
(5) After a stressful time picking out presents in the Old City (Viv: "There are so many beautiful things I can't choose") we came home with appropriately sparkly items.
(6) We have found a yogurt/chocolate item combo that Viv can live on.
(7) Cassie has new favorite foods: schawarma (a new entry into her favorite category of "salty meat") and pear tarts from Aroma.
(8) Viv approves of the falafel and hummus here.
Onward!
Saturday, June 18, 2011
Piggies Make Aliyah to Bethesda
Well, we finally found tenants for our apartment. I have happily stopped cleaning, and have made token moves in the direction of packing the house. Why am I not spending this weekend frantically putting everything in boxes and suitcases? Because this weekend we had to make a family pilgrimage to Bethesda Maryland to drop off our guinea pigs, Pumpkin and Penelope, who will be living with the Bethesda Auerbachs while we're off in the Holy Land.
In fact, the original title of this blog was "Pumpkin and Penelope in the Holy Land." That was before I found out that it is impossible to find an airline that will let you bring a guinea pig in the cabin with you. Dogs? Cats? Rabbits? Sure. But no guinea pigs. When guinea pigs evolve to get opposable thumbs (and drop the whole passive prey animal attitude) surely they will sue the airlines. I mean, come on! Rabbits? Everyone knows what troublemakers they are.
So Josh drove down in a borrowed Mini Cooper convertible with the pigs, while the girls and I took the Vamoose bus. (Ask us who got the better deal and you will get diverging opinions). The pigs are safely ensconced in their new cage, and the Bethesda Auerbachs are duly daunted by the amount of work involved in caring for livestock such as these.
When we return, we'll have 10 days till the movers come. Eek. Or, as the piggies would say, Weep! Weep!
In fact, the original title of this blog was "Pumpkin and Penelope in the Holy Land." That was before I found out that it is impossible to find an airline that will let you bring a guinea pig in the cabin with you. Dogs? Cats? Rabbits? Sure. But no guinea pigs. When guinea pigs evolve to get opposable thumbs (and drop the whole passive prey animal attitude) surely they will sue the airlines. I mean, come on! Rabbits? Everyone knows what troublemakers they are.
So Josh drove down in a borrowed Mini Cooper convertible with the pigs, while the girls and I took the Vamoose bus. (Ask us who got the better deal and you will get diverging opinions). The pigs are safely ensconced in their new cage, and the Bethesda Auerbachs are duly daunted by the amount of work involved in caring for livestock such as these.
When we return, we'll have 10 days till the movers come. Eek. Or, as the piggies would say, Weep! Weep!
Monday, May 30, 2011
Take my apartment, please!
So, it appears we are moving in 5 weeks. To a whole different country. The enormity (and proximity) of this event is beginning to dawn on us. We haven't yet reached the point where the milk we buy will expire after we're gone, but almost. (I remember the milk expiration date as being the "holy shit" moment of being very very pregnant).
I'm very antsy and ready to pack, but we are still trying to rent out our apartment, so I am reluctant to fill it with boxes. I'm tired of spending all of my time cleaning and getting the house ready to show, particularly since it does not move us toward the goal of packing and organizing our things. One more week and the prospective renters will just have to deal with the chaos, I think.
So far our only offer has been from six (6!) student ballerinas. Which, no. My apologies to all of the lovely, mature, and well-adjusted ballerinas out there, but having 6 dancers smoking and throwing up here for a year is not what we had in mind.
Meanwhile, the girls' passports are still not here. (The first time around, we were told their names were too long (WTF?) -- sorry Armentas, but their Mexican heritage will not be reflected in their State Department documents -- so we had to resubmit). Plus I lost my conversion certificate, which, for some reason I need to get a student visa. (What do non-Jewish students do? Who knows? Cacha zeh B'Yisrael). Luckily, the fabulous Leora Kaye and Jennifer Frost have saved my butt, and a duplicate certificate is en route from Chicago.
All of which is to say that it's going fine, really, and we'll get there, but I wish we could fast forward through all the logistics and be there already.
I'm very antsy and ready to pack, but we are still trying to rent out our apartment, so I am reluctant to fill it with boxes. I'm tired of spending all of my time cleaning and getting the house ready to show, particularly since it does not move us toward the goal of packing and organizing our things. One more week and the prospective renters will just have to deal with the chaos, I think.
So far our only offer has been from six (6!) student ballerinas. Which, no. My apologies to all of the lovely, mature, and well-adjusted ballerinas out there, but having 6 dancers smoking and throwing up here for a year is not what we had in mind.
Meanwhile, the girls' passports are still not here. (The first time around, we were told their names were too long (WTF?) -- sorry Armentas, but their Mexican heritage will not be reflected in their State Department documents -- so we had to resubmit). Plus I lost my conversion certificate, which, for some reason I need to get a student visa. (What do non-Jewish students do? Who knows? Cacha zeh B'Yisrael). Luckily, the fabulous Leora Kaye and Jennifer Frost have saved my butt, and a duplicate certificate is en route from Chicago.
All of which is to say that it's going fine, really, and we'll get there, but I wish we could fast forward through all the logistics and be there already.
Tuesday, May 10, 2011
53 Days and Counting
I meant to start documenting our preparations for our year in Jerusalem earlier, but it is probably for the best that I spared everyone the insane anxiety of my Jerusalem apartment search. Given the 7-hour time difference, the Jerusalem real estate day occurs between 2 AM and 10 AM New York time. This is not good news if you're already hopped up on free-floating anxiety and prone to insomnia of the racing thoughts variety. It was a very tiring few weeks.
But thanks to some very patient brokers and a saintly future colleague of mine, who very kindly offered to go check out places for me (and meant it!), I believe, knock on wood, ptu ptu ptu, that we have found our home for the next year. It is a small house in Yemin Moshe, a beautiful historic neighborhood across from the Old City. And only a 10 minute walk to school! It is a pedestrian neighborhood with lots of steps, so we may come out of our year more fit, but we're willing to take that chance.
Now we just have to find someone to rent our New York apartment for the year so I can stop living in a showcase and reclaim my clothes chair.
The real estate search was a very good introduction to our year, actually. On Thursdays, I would get anxious as Shabbat approached in Jerusalem, eager to get all my emails out and answered. Then, radio silence for 24 hours as Jerusalem shut down. It was frustrating, but liberating, since I knew there was nothing I could do, and that no one was answering anyone else's emails either. Everything was just paused for a day. As Shabbat should be. I'm sure there will be times when the ubiquity of Shabbat observance in Jerusalem is maddening, but I admit I'm looking forward to an enforced day of rest.
Another introduction to the differences between New York and Jerusalem has been my efforts to sign the girls up for camp. I've been frantically calling and emailing the YMCA for the past 2 months, trying to make sure they can go to the summer camp there. I finally heard back yesterday, and registration starts next week. In New York, there were lotteries in February for summer camp, so this more laid-back approach to the all-important question of where your kids will play kickball for the summer was startling and refreshing.
There's still lots to do before we go (visas, physicals, packing) but it feels like we're on the downward slope. We're all anxious, but also eager for the adventure to begin.
But thanks to some very patient brokers and a saintly future colleague of mine, who very kindly offered to go check out places for me (and meant it!), I believe, knock on wood, ptu ptu ptu, that we have found our home for the next year. It is a small house in Yemin Moshe, a beautiful historic neighborhood across from the Old City. And only a 10 minute walk to school! It is a pedestrian neighborhood with lots of steps, so we may come out of our year more fit, but we're willing to take that chance.
Now we just have to find someone to rent our New York apartment for the year so I can stop living in a showcase and reclaim my clothes chair.
The real estate search was a very good introduction to our year, actually. On Thursdays, I would get anxious as Shabbat approached in Jerusalem, eager to get all my emails out and answered. Then, radio silence for 24 hours as Jerusalem shut down. It was frustrating, but liberating, since I knew there was nothing I could do, and that no one was answering anyone else's emails either. Everything was just paused for a day. As Shabbat should be. I'm sure there will be times when the ubiquity of Shabbat observance in Jerusalem is maddening, but I admit I'm looking forward to an enforced day of rest.
Another introduction to the differences between New York and Jerusalem has been my efforts to sign the girls up for camp. I've been frantically calling and emailing the YMCA for the past 2 months, trying to make sure they can go to the summer camp there. I finally heard back yesterday, and registration starts next week. In New York, there were lotteries in February for summer camp, so this more laid-back approach to the all-important question of where your kids will play kickball for the summer was startling and refreshing.
There's still lots to do before we go (visas, physicals, packing) but it feels like we're on the downward slope. We're all anxious, but also eager for the adventure to begin.
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