Before we came to Israel, Cassie set 2 goals for our year here: riding a camel and going to the Dead Sea. Recently, it's occurred to us that we've been here 2 months already, and have not really checked much off our list. So this week, when I was on a break between semesters and the girls were on break for the end of Ramadan, we decided to take a family trip to the Dead Sea and the oasis at Ein Gedi.
The girls were very, very excited about our planned "hike." They both wore pants, in case they scraped their knees on the rough terrain. They reminded us to bring water and snacks. They regaled us with stories of nature walks past. After packing unbelievable amounts of stuff for a one-night trip, we were off, in our brand new rental car.
By far the most successful part of the trip was the camel ride, which took place at a gas station on our way to Ein Gedi. For 20 shekels, Cassie and I got a 3 minute walk on a camel, which Cassie accurately described as a "really slow roller coaster ride." Camel ride: check!
The Dead Sea was less successful. We arrived at our self-described luxury resort hotel to find that there was no lunch. The girls had milkshakes and we had a croissant at the coffee bar. Then off to our room, which was basically what you would have found in 1965 in a small town in Arizona. For $300 a night. But never mind! Off to the Dead Sea!
We arrived at the "spa," the guests of which basically fell into 3 categories: Elderly Russians; Elderly Ultra-orthodox Jews; and a smattering of Arab families. And us. We went to eat at the restaurant, which was serving a high-priced and basically inedible meat buffet accompanies by moldy bread. I had a granola bar, a coke, and a beer. Lunch over, we went to the humid and sulfurous spa building, where we wrestled the girls into suits in preparation for a trip via truck-wagon (think a hay ride without the hay) to the Sea itself.
Viv had already made it clear, after our dire warnings about not touching your eyes, that she was NOT GOING IN to the Dead Sea. She was also basically falling asleep. But off we went anyway. We arrived, and it was, we have to admit, very, very cool. A whole "beach" crusted in salt, with big piles of salt everywhere. Cassie and I waded in. She immediately lost her flip-flop and scratched her foot, resulting in hopping that dislodged the other flip-flop. We persevered and enjoyed approximately 10 seconds of submersion, at which point she started to burn all over. In the meantime, Viv had insisted on joining us, but only if I would get her. I went back and fetched Viv as Cassie began to hop and lose her shoes again. Viv also started to itch. But she doesn't like showers. So there we were, the 2 of them starting to snivel in discomfort, and all of us wading out of the scalding water trying not to scrape ourselves on salt. The walk back to the non-hayride was the longest desert trek since the Exodus. Viv was alternately crying and falling asleep. Cassie was insisting that she was NEVER GOING INTO THE DEAD SEA EVER AGAIN. I was wishing I had another beer.
Thank goodness for swimming pools. Following this debacle, we went to the pool, where both girls perked up and invented new jumps while the "lifeguard" basically texted and napped the entire time. After dinner, we put Viv to bed, and I stayed with her, reading by flashlight like I haven't done since I was 10. Cassie insisted that we take a walk with flashlights, but soon discovered spiders. Finally, we all went to sleep, with only 2 of us snoring at a time, and the other 2 getting up to alternatively turn on and off the annoyingly binary air conditioning.
In the morning, we were all cranky. Breakfast didn't help, since this is a land that does not know from real coffee. Cassie didn't want to go on a hike. Viv insisted on going on a hike, but also insisted that we carry her. Josh and I somehow kept ourselves from crying, since the only reason we didn't do a daytrip was to have a chance to see the oasis/national park. We scrapped the hike and went back to the pool, keeping an eye on the time so that we could be sure to avoid the spa buffet and instead dine in the relative splendor of the gas station with the camel rides. More jumps! More splashing!
At this point, the girls deem this the best vacation ever. Josh and I are glad we have babysitting on the other end.
All in all, a success! After all, we checked both of Cassie's goals off our list, and have learned that the secret to happiness on our upcoming trip to Istanbul will be making sure we have access to a pool. Plus, it got us to finally sign up for a monthly rental car, which has already changed our lives for the better. Stay tuned for further adventures!
Thursday, September 1, 2011
Saturday, August 13, 2011
Kaballat Shabbat behind the Mechitza and under the Moon
One of my friends suggested that we check out a synagogue in our neighborhood for Friday night services. It was an orthodox congregation, with a mechitza (the divider between men and women's sides), but he said the services were spirited and fun, and I was curious to get a taste of a traditional service.
We arrived and split up, the men going in one entrance, and the women around the back. We entered a room with a high mechitzah, separating the women's section from the men's. The women were sitting silently as the men prayed. This did not bode well. Luckily, we soon realized that our male friends were not up front. We were thrilled (or at least I was) to find that this was not the right service. We went upstairs, and found another room with a mechitza. This one ran down the middle, but the prayer leader was on the men's side. It was hot, and there were no open seats. I struggled to find our place in the siddur (prayerbook). I was happy to see the women singing and praying audibly this time, but except for the times when I recognized a familiar tune, I was adrift.
Then, the unthinkable happened. The lights went out. Had someone leaned on the switch? If so, we were stuck, because no one in that room was going to admit being willing to flip the switch back on after Shabbat had begun. Since it was too dark to follow the siddur, many of the women walked outside, where there was still some light. (The men stayed inside in the dark. Go figure).
That's when the magic began for me. The moon was bright and visible through the clouds, which were turning pink and drifting across the sky. We could see a star peeking through here and there. All around us were the sounds of people singing to welcome Shabbat. It was wonderful to actually see evening fall. Shabbat was arriving in a tangible, visible way. Then the lights went back on, and many women went back inside. I stayed outside for awhile though, not wanting to give up the breeze and the freedom.
All in all, the service was not my cup of tea. But I'm glad I went, in part because it shows me just how far I have to go in being able to skillfully pray the traditional service. I hope to go back at the end of the year and see if it feels different, or less foreign.
Next on my list is Shira Chadasha, and orthodox feminist congregation, which requires 10 women as well as 10 men to form a minyan, and which allows women to read Torah. I hear the mechitza is lower, too. I'll be curious to see if that experience feels different, and less alienating. Or whether it's like yoga, and the first 10 times are just going to seem awkward and uncomfortable no matter what.
Stay tuned!
We arrived and split up, the men going in one entrance, and the women around the back. We entered a room with a high mechitzah, separating the women's section from the men's. The women were sitting silently as the men prayed. This did not bode well. Luckily, we soon realized that our male friends were not up front. We were thrilled (or at least I was) to find that this was not the right service. We went upstairs, and found another room with a mechitza. This one ran down the middle, but the prayer leader was on the men's side. It was hot, and there were no open seats. I struggled to find our place in the siddur (prayerbook). I was happy to see the women singing and praying audibly this time, but except for the times when I recognized a familiar tune, I was adrift.
Then, the unthinkable happened. The lights went out. Had someone leaned on the switch? If so, we were stuck, because no one in that room was going to admit being willing to flip the switch back on after Shabbat had begun. Since it was too dark to follow the siddur, many of the women walked outside, where there was still some light. (The men stayed inside in the dark. Go figure).
That's when the magic began for me. The moon was bright and visible through the clouds, which were turning pink and drifting across the sky. We could see a star peeking through here and there. All around us were the sounds of people singing to welcome Shabbat. It was wonderful to actually see evening fall. Shabbat was arriving in a tangible, visible way. Then the lights went back on, and many women went back inside. I stayed outside for awhile though, not wanting to give up the breeze and the freedom.
All in all, the service was not my cup of tea. But I'm glad I went, in part because it shows me just how far I have to go in being able to skillfully pray the traditional service. I hope to go back at the end of the year and see if it feels different, or less foreign.
Next on my list is Shira Chadasha, and orthodox feminist congregation, which requires 10 women as well as 10 men to form a minyan, and which allows women to read Torah. I hear the mechitza is lower, too. I'll be curious to see if that experience feels different, and less alienating. Or whether it's like yoga, and the first 10 times are just going to seem awkward and uncomfortable no matter what.
Stay tuned!
Shabbat FAIL
So, it seems like we must be doing Shabbat wrong. Because I'm sure that it's not supposed to be a day where you look at the clock wondering when it will end. That's Yom Kippur!
Basically, the problems are:
(1) My school week is Sunday through Thursday, as is the girls'.
(2) All the stores close by 3 on Friday and don't open again till Sunday.
(3) Josh works Friday nights.
(4) We don't have a group of friends with kids yet for weekend playdates.
So I get home tired and sweaty from a field trip every Thursday night. Friday (my only real day "off") is the day we run around (with the kids) doing shopping and errands so we can be sure to have food to last us till Sunday morning. Friday afternoon, I hang with the kids while Josh works, and then sometimes sneak out to services. Saturday morning, Viv and I go to services while Josh and Cass stay home. Then we basically have 8 hours to fill till bedtime. It's been crazy hot, so outdoor activities are hard with the kids during the day. So unless we have a Shabbat lunch or something, we basically hang out annoying each other all day. As soon as the kids are in bed, it's time to do my homework, since a brand new week starts at 8:30 AM Sunday.
I realize that the answer to this is planning. We may soon get a long term car rental, since part of the problem is that by the time we realize we'd like to get out of town, we can no longer rent one. And now that I'll no longer be required to attend services at HUC every Saturday, we will have a bit more freedom to get out of town. But we're working so hard during the week that planning a trip seems like ONE MORE THING, and wouldn't necessarily leave us feeling more rested. Shabbat just isn't feeling like a day of rest right now. It feels like something to overcome, and that's not what I want. I know we'll figure it out, and soon the girls will have friends who we can get together with on the weekends, which should help a lot. But for now, the lack of Shabbat in my Shabbat is making me grouchy.
Basically, the problems are:
(1) My school week is Sunday through Thursday, as is the girls'.
(2) All the stores close by 3 on Friday and don't open again till Sunday.
(3) Josh works Friday nights.
(4) We don't have a group of friends with kids yet for weekend playdates.
So I get home tired and sweaty from a field trip every Thursday night. Friday (my only real day "off") is the day we run around (with the kids) doing shopping and errands so we can be sure to have food to last us till Sunday morning. Friday afternoon, I hang with the kids while Josh works, and then sometimes sneak out to services. Saturday morning, Viv and I go to services while Josh and Cass stay home. Then we basically have 8 hours to fill till bedtime. It's been crazy hot, so outdoor activities are hard with the kids during the day. So unless we have a Shabbat lunch or something, we basically hang out annoying each other all day. As soon as the kids are in bed, it's time to do my homework, since a brand new week starts at 8:30 AM Sunday.
I realize that the answer to this is planning. We may soon get a long term car rental, since part of the problem is that by the time we realize we'd like to get out of town, we can no longer rent one. And now that I'll no longer be required to attend services at HUC every Saturday, we will have a bit more freedom to get out of town. But we're working so hard during the week that planning a trip seems like ONE MORE THING, and wouldn't necessarily leave us feeling more rested. Shabbat just isn't feeling like a day of rest right now. It feels like something to overcome, and that's not what I want. I know we'll figure it out, and soon the girls will have friends who we can get together with on the weekends, which should help a lot. But for now, the lack of Shabbat in my Shabbat is making me grouchy.
Monday, August 1, 2011
Kittens!
We've now moved out of Yemin Moshe, but this video shows a bit of how beautiful it is, and highlights our favorite part -- the KITTENS!
Sunday, July 31, 2011
Giving Thanks
Last Friday, the girls wrote their thoughts on slips of paper and placed them in the Western Wall.
Centipede
Despite their profound differences, I have to believe that Israelis and Palestinians would agree that this massive centipede is icky.
Saturday, July 23, 2011
"Are they Muslim?"
It's been a whirlwind week here in the Holy Land.
I had my first week of classes, which was a welcome change from orientation. The main focus of this 6 week summer session is an intensive Hebrew program, which meets 3 1/2 hours a day Sunday through Wednesday. I am in a great class, and happily, we all feel like we're stretching to understand, so no one's bored and no one is flailing. But since the class is just ahead of our skills, I have to pay attention every second to stay in the groove, and being on the edge of your seat for 4 hours is exhausting.
We also have a Biblical Archeology class, which is fascinating, and includes a field trip every week. This week, we went out to a lookout point to get a good topographical view of the city, and then went to an archeological site at Ramat Rachel. I feel so Indiana Jones. I can't believe I get to do this stuff for credit.
In apartment news, we saw a bunch more places this week, and ultimately decided to go with a gorgeous place that's a bit further out than we would have liked. It has a fantastic view, plenty of room to entertain, and a wonderful workspace for Josh. Plus a guest room, and 2 rooms for the girls. (Stay tuned for pushback when they are forced to share again 11 months from now). It's also a (longish) walking distance from their school, which should come in handy. It's basically the apartment we wish we had in NYC, and so is well worth the commute, I think. I just hope we can lure my friends out to visit us!
In some ways the most exciting news of the week was that we received our first Shabbat lunch invitation from people unrelated to my school. Viv has made a friend at camp, Noah, and his mom called out of the blue to invite us over. I was really excited to get the invite; it made me feel like we'd arrived, and showed off the hospitable side of Israeli life. Since the mom's name was Bracha, and the camp is modern orthodox, I was a bit flummoxed about what to bring, since I didn't know what brand of kashrut they followed. I settled on fruit, which is always kosher, and it turned out to be a hit.
The lunch was awkward and lovely at the same time. Josh borrowed a kippah (yarmulke) from their 3 year old till I arrived with his own, and there were lots of traditional practices that were new for the girls. When it came time to do the ritual handwashing, Cassie whispered, "Are they Muslim?" Since I'm barely used to the Reform version of the blessing after meals, I was a bit lost, but we all hung in there, and our hosts were very gracious about our cluelessness. After lunch, Viv and I went to the playground with her friend and his mom, and had a great time. All in all, even if we don't have so much in common with Noah's family, it was wonderful to be welcomed into the homes of strangers in our first month here.
Since the school week is Sunday through Thursday here, tonight's a school night (although I know many of the younger folks in my class will be partying late). Time to make thedonuts flashcards.
I had my first week of classes, which was a welcome change from orientation. The main focus of this 6 week summer session is an intensive Hebrew program, which meets 3 1/2 hours a day Sunday through Wednesday. I am in a great class, and happily, we all feel like we're stretching to understand, so no one's bored and no one is flailing. But since the class is just ahead of our skills, I have to pay attention every second to stay in the groove, and being on the edge of your seat for 4 hours is exhausting.
We also have a Biblical Archeology class, which is fascinating, and includes a field trip every week. This week, we went out to a lookout point to get a good topographical view of the city, and then went to an archeological site at Ramat Rachel. I feel so Indiana Jones. I can't believe I get to do this stuff for credit.
In apartment news, we saw a bunch more places this week, and ultimately decided to go with a gorgeous place that's a bit further out than we would have liked. It has a fantastic view, plenty of room to entertain, and a wonderful workspace for Josh. Plus a guest room, and 2 rooms for the girls. (Stay tuned for pushback when they are forced to share again 11 months from now). It's also a (longish) walking distance from their school, which should come in handy. It's basically the apartment we wish we had in NYC, and so is well worth the commute, I think. I just hope we can lure my friends out to visit us!
In some ways the most exciting news of the week was that we received our first Shabbat lunch invitation from people unrelated to my school. Viv has made a friend at camp, Noah, and his mom called out of the blue to invite us over. I was really excited to get the invite; it made me feel like we'd arrived, and showed off the hospitable side of Israeli life. Since the mom's name was Bracha, and the camp is modern orthodox, I was a bit flummoxed about what to bring, since I didn't know what brand of kashrut they followed. I settled on fruit, which is always kosher, and it turned out to be a hit.
The lunch was awkward and lovely at the same time. Josh borrowed a kippah (yarmulke) from their 3 year old till I arrived with his own, and there were lots of traditional practices that were new for the girls. When it came time to do the ritual handwashing, Cassie whispered, "Are they Muslim?" Since I'm barely used to the Reform version of the blessing after meals, I was a bit lost, but we all hung in there, and our hosts were very gracious about our cluelessness. After lunch, Viv and I went to the playground with her friend and his mom, and had a great time. All in all, even if we don't have so much in common with Noah's family, it was wonderful to be welcomed into the homes of strangers in our first month here.
Since the school week is Sunday through Thursday here, tonight's a school night (although I know many of the younger folks in my class will be partying late). Time to make the
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)